Anafi

Anafi

Anafi is the island right next to Santorini that feels like Santorini before anyone knew what Santorini was. A single village clinging to the slope, one port, one long road, and behind it all the enormous rock of Kalamos — the second highest monolith in the Mediterranean — rising like a wall out of the sea.

It is the anti-Santorini. No cruise ships, no caldera cocktails, no boutiques. Just white houses with blue doors, a few tavernas where the owner cooks whatever came in that morning, and beaches you walk to for an hour under the sun — Roukounas with its dunes, Agios Nikolaos with its tamarisks, Katsouni with stones that hurt your feet in the best way. At sunset everyone ends up at the port for raki, and at night the sky is so black you can see the Milky Way from your balcony. Anafi is for people who want a Cycladic island that still belongs to itself.

For when you want to really disappear

You’ll love it here if crowds are your nightmare and silence is the point. It’s defined more by absence than abundance, about 300 people, very limited infrastructure, which is exactly why people go. Best for experienced island hoppers, minimalists, and people who want distance from everything. You get space, self-directed exploring, and beaches that feel yours. The south coast is where you’ll live, Megalos Roukounas is the most popular, under the giant monolith of Kalamos, about 4km from Chora, long-time favourite for free campers, nudists and nature lovers because it’s so tranquil and isolated. Kleisidi is the easy one, 4.7km from Chora, 1.2km from Agios Nikolaos port, crystal clear and fine sand, with Margarita and Mule and the Pig right by the beach for food. Trail from Chora to Kleisidi, then 10 to 15 minutes to Katsouni and Flamourou, all open and natural, very few beach bars. Hiking is the other big draw, it’s a mountain rising out of the sea, so wind is less of an issue than other Cyclades. Paths up to Panagia Kalamiotissa monastery on top of Kalamos rock, that second highest monolith in the Mediterranean, views over to Santorini. Bus connects all the beaches on the southwest coast in summer, and small 4x4s are available. Evenings are one taverna like To Steki, early night, stars, no scene. Not ideal if you need choices, shops, or a packed itinerary. You come here to do less, swim, hike, and reset.

Getting off-grid without the hassle

It’s east of Santorini, but still takes planning. Direct ferry from Piraeus runs about 2 to 4 days a week year round, Blue Star Ferries is the main one via Santorini. Fastest is around 8 hours 5 minutes, average 9 to 10 hours, 139 nautical miles. First ferry often departs 14:30, last around 23:00, arriving Anafi early morning 03:00 to 06:00. Tickets from around 47 euro foot passenger if booked ahead. Easier for many is fly to Santorini, 4 hours from UK direct, then short ferry Santorini to Anafi, about 1.5 to 2.5 hours, connections to Crete, Folegandros, Ios, Karpathos, Kasos, Naxos, Paros and more in summer. Best months are late May to early October. June and September are sweet spot, warm but not scorching, enough people that tavernas are open but beaches still quiet. July and August sees more arrivals on the night ferry, but still very uncrowded compared to Santorini. April, May and October are great for hiking, cooler and very empty. Stay in Chora for views and quiet, or Kleisidi / Agios Nikolaos port area for beach access and bus links. Rooms are simple pensions and studios, book early for August, and note ferries arrive at night, so arrange a pickup. Bring hiking shoes, cash, and a headtorch for those night arrivals. And build in a buffer if you have a flight, Anafi is small and weather can shift sailings.

Sources

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Last Updated on August 26, 2026 by admin